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Polybutylene Supply Lines (Gray Plastic Valves And Hoses Under The Sink)

5/18/2018

 
Polybutylene valves and supply tubing under kitchen sink.
Polybutylene valves and supply tubing under kitchen sink.
Do you have gray plastic shut off valves and supply hoses under you sinks and toilets? If your house was built in the 1970s to the mid 1990s you could find this type of valve and hose under a kitchen or bathroom sink or possibly under the toilet. 

The gray plastic fittings in these pictures are made of polybutylene. This was a standard plumbing fixture valve and hose material from the 70s to to the mid 90s. During this period, there were issues with polybutylene supply tubing in walls and crawlspaces developing leaks and the use of this material was discontinued around 1995. 

​I still run across these type of valves and supply hoses under sinks and toilets. Given the past long term issues and problems with polybutylene piping I always recommend replacing these valves and hoses with modern plumbing parts. 
Polybutylene valve and tubing under bathroom sink.
Polybutylene valve and tubing under bathroom sink.
Polybutylene toilet supply valve and tubing
Polybutylene toilet supply valve and tubing.

Duct Tape Is Not The Same As Conduit

5/4/2018

 
Duct tape used inappropriately as conduit
Top of an electric water heater with conduit protecting the electrical wiring not quite reaching the top of the tank. Duct tape used to cover the gap is not a good idea.
Interesting find at a recent inspection. The armored conduit for the electric water heater was just a bit short during installation. Rather than obtaining a longer piece, the installer decided to substitute duct tape to cover the gap. Though it is the same color as the conduit, duct tape does not provide the same benefits as an appropriate length of armored conduit. This is a potential safety hazard for shock and needs to be repaired. Standard building practices call for the power supply wires to be protected with BX armored conduit all the way to the top of the tank to prevent damage. Duct tape is not listed in the building code as an option. 
Duct tape used inappropriately as conduit
Duct tape is the same color as the conduit but does not provide the same benefits of actually protecting the wiring.

Chimney Cap Damage

3/9/2018

 
Mortar chimney cap
Chimney Cap - black arrow. This is a protective covering made out of mortar that protects the top of the chimney.
Brick and mortar chimneys are a common site on rooftops of a certain age in Washington State. A common point of deferred maintenance and long term damage is at the chimney cap. This is the mortar cap at the top of the chimney that protects the top of the chimney and bricks below. 
Cracked mortar chimney cap.
Mortar chimney cap cracked and flaking from long term water exposure. Water has been getting through those cracks for a long time. Water exposure, ice, snow and moss growth are all contributing to these cracks growing over time.
Water tends to pool and collect on the top of the chimney cap. This can lead to moss growth and erosion of the mortar which over the long term leads to cracks and cap failure. Eventually the cap will split and be in danger of falling off the chimney on to the roof or to the ground below. ​

If a chimney cap is at the point of damage like in these pictures, it needs to be repaired or replaced. Preventative maintenance is the regular cleaning of moss and the installation of a rain cap over the flue that extends over the edges of the chimney. 
Loose mortar chimney cap
Loose mortar chimney cap. Long term result of water exposure. This part of the cap is loose and wiggling up and down (arrows). There is a possibility of it falling to the roof or to the ground below.

Failed Paint and Underlying Rot

2/9/2018

 
Rotting support post
If you can push your finger in to a support post, you may have a problem.
Do you have areas of failing paint on exterior wooden structures? Does your support post feel mushy and your finger sink under the surface when pressed? You may have a problem if you are experiencing these issues.

​This is a pretty common problem on exterior wooden structures and highlights the need for annual maintenance. All outside wood structures need to be looked at for failing caulking and paint every year. Caulking should be removed and renewed if found cracked and failing. Areas of failing paint should be repaired and repainted to avoid problems like these.

With the long term neglect of this structure the only real option is to replace the rotted wood and start over again. Putting paint over the top of the rotting wood will hide the damage for a bit but it doesn't change the fact that the underlying wood is structurally unsound. 

Rotting Wooden Post
Exterior wooden support post with evidence of long standing water exposure. Notice the moss growth and failing paint.
Rotting wood
Close up of rotting area. Moss growth generally indicates long term water and moisture presence. The soft and rotting wood confirms this has been going on for a while.

Flat Roof Clog, Pond and Leak

1/26/2018

 
Ponding water on a flat roof
Flat roof problems - easily clogged gutter downspouts lead to ponding water.
Flat roofs are not ideal - they have a lot of issues with standing water from easily clogged gutters. Ponding water that remains on the roof will eventually find a way in to the substructure. This can easily lead to extensive water damage. Flat roofs require regular maintenance and need to be kept clear of debris as much as possible.
Clogged gutter on a flat roof
Easily clogged gutter - not good.
Standing water on roof
Standing water next to the wall to roof transition - prime location for water to enter the sub-structure.
Damaged drywall from water leak
Water damage from the inside. This is the same corner where the standing water is collecting on the roof. It is getting through the roof and wall and damaging the drywall inside.

Cold Leaking In - Drafty Attic Hatch

12/15/2017

 
One of the most common sources of drafts and cold air in a home is a leaking attic entry hatch. They are often out of sight and out of mind but can lead to a lot of chilly nights and increased heating costs. 
Thermal image of attic hatch
Thermal image of air leakage around the perimeter of the attic hatch. The darker colors are cooler and show where cold air is entering the house.
As with any drafty situation, the first thing to look for is a source of air leakage. When air can move from one area to another it takes heat with it. This is a good thing for hot air blowing out of a heating duct register but not ideal when that same heated air is moving in to the attic or outdoors.

From the thermal images and with visual inspection of this attic hatch it appears that the weatherstripping is inadequate. There is pretty good insulation over the center of the hatch but there is obvious air movement around the perimeter. Warm air from the house is leaking in to the attic which increases heating costs and decreases comfort in the home.
Weather stripping
There is some old and thin weather stripping around the attic hatch. It is pretty compressed and not doing a good job of stopping air movement. This needs to be replaced.
Attic hatch insulation
Good amount of insulation batting attached to the attic hatch. This by itself won't stop a draft. The edges need to be better sealed with weather stripping.

What's Causing That Spreading Ceiling Stain?

11/17/2017

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Water stain on ceiling
Spreading ceiling stain after a number of rainy days. This part of the ceiling is located under a roof valley.
Something is going on with this ceiling. The homeowner noticed a growing stain on the ceiling that seemed to get worse every time it rained. This corner of the ceiling is under a low area of the roof and located directly under a roof valley (junction of two sloping areas of a roof). This stain is a good indication that the roof is leaking.

There was a previous leak in this same area, you can see the square area where a previous repair has been completed. Obviously the leak wasn't repaired adequately or a new leak has formed in the same area.

Common areas of roof leaks are roof valleys, junctions where a vertical surface abuts the roof or penetrations from pipes through the roof. The homeowners had a roofing company inspect the roof and they found an improperly installed valley flashing. The roofers repaired the flashing and made the roof water tight again.
Removing wet drywall
At least it's easy to remove wet drywall to see what is going on in the ceiling.
Once the leak has been repaired, it's time to open up the ceiling and assess the damage. The drywall needs to be cut from this section of the ceiling and any wet insulation needs to be removed. Inspect the attic area and try to find all the remaining water on the joists and wooden components. The repair area needs to be left open to dry before completing any repairs.
Removing wet insulation from a ceiling
Removing the wet insulation. This will need to be replaced with new insulation when the ceiling is patched.
Mildew growing on ceiling drywall
Mold and mildew growing on the back of the wet drywall. This leak has been here for a while.
Wet ceiling joists. Leak in the roof above.
Drywall removed and ceiling joists exposed. Hard to see in this picture but all the wood is soaked with water. The roof needs to be repaired and this area needs to dry prior to patching the drywall.
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Chimney Damage - Failing Mortar

11/10/2017

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Chimney bricks with failing mortar
Chimney with signs of water damage - moss growth and failing mortar between the bricks.
Brick and mortar chimneys exposed to water over time will deteriorate. Though bricks are more or less indestructible the mortar holding them together is prone to damage and eventual failure. Once the mortar between the bricks cracks and begins to fall out the bricks and structural integrity of the chimney are sure to follow. 

These pictures show some typical long term water damage to the mortar between bricks on a above roof chimney. Someone noticed this problem before and attempted to fix the failing mortar with silicone caulking. This is not the correct repair technique - caulking is not going to do anything to stabilize the brick.

This chimney needs repair - the bricks need to be "re-pointed". Re-pointing is the process of removing the old mortar joints and replacing with fresh mortar. This is within the realm of ability of most homeowners but it is a tedious job and depending on location could pose some safety concerns. If this project doesn't appeal to you or you are not comfortable being on your roof, look for a masonry repair specialist to do the job.

The following is a link to a nice overview of repointing-brick on the This Old House website. 
Chimney bricks with failing mortar
This mortar is easy to pull away from between the bricks. This needs to be fixed.
Chimney bricks with failing mortar
Not the right way to try to fix this problem. Someone used silicone caulk to try to repair the mortar between the bricks. This isn't really doing anything to fix the problem.
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Should have done this before it rained. How to clear a backed up gutter.

11/3/2017

 

How To Remove A Downspout Clog

10/27/2017

 
It's starting to rain in the Pacific Northwest and time to perform some simple maintenance on your gutters and downspouts. Downspouts are often connected to gutters with an elbow fitting. Because of the bends in the elbow, these are prone to clogs from pine needles, leaves and other debris. It is important to make sure your gutters and downspouts can actually drain the roof before the rainy season starts. Follow the steps below to make sure your downspouts are ready for the next few months of work.
Ladder under a downspout
Tools needed for this project - ladder, gloves, screwdriver or nut driver and a cleaning tool.
Picture
My preferred clog removal tool, a stick found on the ground.
Tools Needed:
•Ladder
•Gloves (sharp edges on the downspout sheet metal)
•Screwdriver - typically slotted or a nut driver - usually 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch
•Clog Removal Device - I'm using a stick I found on the ground
•Colorful Language (optional, but satisfying)
Gutter downspout fastener
Step 1 - Find the sheet metal screws holding the downspout fittings together. These are usually slotted type fasteners located at the fitting junctions.
Removing a sheet metal fastener
Step 2 - Remove all the fasteners of the downspout piece you want to remove.
Removing a downspout
Step 3 - Pull the joint apart. This may require some wiggling and the liberal application of colorful language.
Removing a downspout
Step 3 - Remove both sides of the elbow joint. Colorful language still helpful if needed.
Pine needle clog in a downspout elbow
Step 4 - Remove any clogs or debris from the elbow. This one is clogged with a large amount of pine needles.
Clearing a downspout clog
Step 4 - Using the "clog poking device" clear out any clog from the gutter to downspout connection.
Clogged gutter to downspout connection
Step 4 - View from below at the gutter to downspout connection. This still needs to have debris removed.
Replacing a downspout elbow
Step 5 - Once the downspout is clean, replace the elbow. It is usually easiest to start from the bottom connection. Once again, colorful language is helpful to get things to fit.
Replacing a downspout elbow
Step 5 - Almost done. Once the bottom of the elbow is in start to work on getting the upper end back in place.
Securing a downspout elbow
Step 6 - Once you have found the screw you dropped on the ground, put it back in place to secure the elbow.
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    Brian Jovag, owner of Jovag Home Inspection.

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