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Failing Paint and Caulking - What is hidden underneath?

8/25/2017

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Caulking and paint need yearly maintenance to ensure that it is still protecting your house. A common spot to find hidden damage is at exposed wood trim, especially at areas that have a latex caulk sealing a gap. Caulking with a coat of paint is pretty good protection for wood, but  once it fails water has an easy path to wood and can cause hidden damage.
Stair railing with failing paint and caulking.
Look for bubbling areas of paint and dried out looking cracks in the caulking between joints.
You can see the failing paint and shrinking caulking in the above pictures. A good visual clue to look for is "bubbling" areas of paint on a flat surface. You will also see cracked looking caulking in between wood joints. Think like a drop of water - it wants to go with gravity and the path of least resistance. This railing was pretty sound at the top but had significant damage towards the bottom of the slope. 
Stair railing with failing paint and caulking.
Damage is easy to see the farther down the slope you go. Water damage generally follows gravity and the path of least resistance.
Probing for hidden damage.
Light pressure probing with a knife reveals the damage under an area of failing paint.
Just a little bit of probing at a bubbling area reveals hidden damage. I used fairly light pressure here and the knife slid right in to the wood. You can see the hidden rot underneath. This has been going on for a while. It's likely that the previous homeowner painted over a failing area of paint without fixing the underlying damage. 
Extensive rot hidden beneath failing paint.
The bottom of the railing with extensive rot. This railing needs to be replaced.
Extensive rot hidden beneath failing paint.
Pretty rotten. That knife went all the way through.
Probing rotted wood with a knife.
Light pressure with probing sunk the knife in to the failing wood.
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How To Remove A Light Fixture

8/18/2017

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Need to update your light fixtures from those boring contractor grade lights? Considering upgrading to a ceiling fan in a room? Follow along below for a step by step guide on removing an existing light fixture. If you are not comfortable working with electrical circuits consider hiring a professional for any upgrades or changes to your fixtures. 
Light fixture on ceiling.
Old light fixture that needs to come down off the ceiling.
Removing a light fixture cover
Most light covers have a nut on the bottom that unscrews to allow removal of the cover.
Step 1: 

Turn off the power to the light fixture circuit at the main electrical panel (fuse box). 

Remove the light cover. Remove the bulbs from the fixture.
Light bulbs exposed after cover removal.
Cover off and bulbs exposed.
Empty light fixture with bulbs removed.
Bulbs removed.

Junction box screws holding a fixture to the ceiling.
Two machine screws hold the fixture in place. They are sometimes hidden by insulation.
Loosening the junction box screws on a light fixture.
Use a screwdriver to loosen the screws. They need to be backed out about an inch to remove the fixture.
Removing a light fixture.
Rotate the fixture along the slots where the screws protrude. There is a cutout on the slot that allows the screw heads to slip through.
Step 2: 

Find the two machine screws holding the fixture to the junction box. They may be hidden under some insulation. Back the screws out about an inch. Rotate the fixture so the screws move in the slots to the point where the cutout allows the screw heads to slip through. Gently pull the fixture from the ceiling. The wires are still attached so don't yank anything at this point.

Using a non contact tester on an electrical wire.
Use a non contact tester to ensure that the power is off to this circuit. Green means no power detected.
Removing a wire nut.
Remove the wire nuts from the black, white and bare copper wires. Separate the wire connections.
Wires for a light fixture protruding from a ceiling junction box.
Junction box is ready for a new fixture. Don't turn the power back on to this circuit until a new fixture is in place.
Step 3:

Use a non contact tester to ensure that there is no power at the black and white wires. If no power is present, unscrew the wire nuts from all three sets of wires. Carefully separate the wires and remove the fixture. 

This junction box is now ready for a new fixture. Follow the directions that come with the new light for installation of the new fixture.
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How To Repair A Sliding Screen Door

8/11/2017

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Dog looking through screen door.
One of the reasons the screen door is damaged. There are a lot of holes at someone's nose height.
Damaged screen door
If your fingers can fit through the screen door it is very likely that bugs can make it through as well.
Sliding screen doors are great at keeping bugs out and allowing pleasant breezes in but they are prone to damage. Dogs trying to get in, cats trying to get out and children who try to grab on to the frame too enthusiastically can all be a problem. Follow this step by step guide to learn how to replace a damaged screen on a sliding screen door. 

Tools Needed:
  • Screen Door Spline Tool
  • Phillips and Slotted Screwdrivers
  • Utility Knife
  • Tape Measure
  • Tape

Parts Needed:
  • Replacement Screen
  • Replacement Spline
Screen Door Spline Tool, Screwdrivers, Utility Knife, Blue Masking Tape, Tape Measure
Tools needed from left to right: Screen door spline tool, Phillips Head Screwdriver, Slotted Screw Driver, Utility Knife, Tape, Tape Measure.

Screen door handle being removed
This door handle needs to be removed in order to replace the screen.
Screen door handle removed.
Door handle removed from the outside. The inner half can stay in place.
Step 1:

Remove any hardware on the outside of the door. 

Prying the spline out of the screen door.
Start in the corner to pry out the spline.
Working the spline out of the screen door.
Work the screwdriver under the spline and pull straight out.
Removing the spline from a screen door.
A steady pull on the spline all around the perimeter of the door will remove it.
Step 2:

Choose a corner and start to remove the spline (rubber piece holding the screen in the channel). A slotted screw driver is a good starter to pry out the spline. Once it is started you can pull the spline out around the perimeter of the door. 

Removing damaged screen
Remove the damaged screen from the frame.
Removing the damaged screen from a screen door.
Pull the screen from the channel all the way around the door perimeter.
Step 3: 

​Remove the damaged screen from the frame. The screen should remove easily once the spline is out. 

Measuring a damaged screen door screen
Damaged screen about 27 inches wide. You need to add an inch to each side for proper installation. The replacement screen needs to be at least 29 inches wide.
Step 4: 

Lay the damaged screen out on a flat surface and take measurements. You will need the width and the length. The damaged screen dimensions are the minimum amount required for a replacement. You want to have about an inch overlap on each side when buying the replacement. The replacement screen for this door needs to be at least 29 inches wide by 79 inches long for proper installation.
Measuring the length of a damaged screen door screen
Damaged screen about 77 inches long. You need to add an inch to each end for proper installation. Replacement needs to be a minimum of 79 inches long.
Spline material for a screen door.
Old spline material pulled from damaged door. This could be re-used or purchase new spline material when you get the replacement screen.

Pre cut rolls of fiberglass screen door screen
Pre-cut fiberglass mesh screen. This is generally the more expensive option.
Rolls of fiberglass and aluminum replacement screens.
Cut to length fiberglass and aluminum screen. This is usually the less expensive option than pre-cut rolls.
Step 5: 

Find a replacement screen at your local hardware store. This store sells common pre-cut sizes in rolls and cut to length rolls in both aluminum and fiberglass mesh.

​

Replacement screen secured by tape.
Secure the replacement screen with tape to aid in installation.
Overlap the replacement screen by an inch on each side of the frame.
The replacement screen needs to overlap the channel by an inch on each side for proper installation.
Step 6: 

Position the replacement screen over the door frame. Each side needs to overlap by about an inch for proper installation. I like to secure the replacement screen in place with blue painter's tape.

Using a spline tool.
Starting in the upper left corner, use the thin, convex side of the spline tool to pre-crease the screen in to the spline channel.
Pressing spline material into place by hand.
Press the spline material in to the channel on top of the pre-creased replacement screen.
Using a spline tool.
Using the concave roller of the spline tool, firmly seat the spline in to the channel along the entire top of the door.
Step 7: 

Start at the top. Use the spline tool to pre-crease the screen in to the channel. Press the spline into place over the screen and in to the channel by hand. Follow up with the spline tool to roll along the spline and firmly seat in place.

I concentrate on the top of the door frame first and try to get everything positioned evenly along the width of the replacement screen. Don't be afraid to start over if you notice the screen isn't quite level with the frame. Just pull out the spline, reposition the screen and repeat until everything is nice and even.

Using a spline tool.
Right side of the door. Using the spline tool to pre-crease the screen in to the channel.
Using a spline tool.
Firmly seat the spline material in to the channel along the perimeter of the door.
Step 8: 

Once you are happy with the top of the door move to the right side. Once again use the thin side of the spline tool to pre-crease the screen in to the channel. Place the spline and then use the concave side of the tool to seat the spline in place.


Putting a new spline in for a replacement screen.
Keep the screen taut along the bottom and left side when placing the spline.
Splining a screen door.
Spline all the way back to the start. Make sure the spline is firmly seated all along the perimeter channel.
Cutting the end of a spline with a utility knife.
Use a utility knife to cut the spline to length. Tuck the end in to the channel and firmly seat with a small screwdriver.
Step 9: 

The bottom and left side of the door are a little bit tricky. You want to make sure to pull the screen tight before creasing the screen and placing the spline. 

Hold the screen tight and work a few inches at a time with the spline to ensure that everything stays level and taut. 

Once you reach the starting point with the spline you will likely have a bit left over. Cut to length with a utility knife.

Trimming excess screen door material
Place the tip of a utility knife just on the outside edge of the spline.
Trimming excess screen door material
Lightly draw the utility knife along the outside edge of the spline.
Trimming excess screen door material
A slow and steady cut will leave a clean edge along the replacement screen.
Step 10: 

Once the spline is firmly seated and the screen is to your liking it's time to trim the excess screen away. Using a utility knife, cut just outside the spline on the screen. Slow and steady will give you a nice clean edge. 

​

Replacing the door handle on a screen door.
Replace the door handle hardware over the replacement screen.
Completed project, the replacement screen is installed.
The replacement screen is in place.
Step 11: 

Replace the door hardware. Adjust the door as needed and lubricate the tracks.
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What the heck is efflorescence?

8/4/2017

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Efflorescence deposits on a brick chimney
Efflorescence on a brick chimney. These are white salt deposits that indicate water movement through the brick..
Have you ever noticed a white chalk like deposit on a brick wall or chimney? This is efflorescence - a salt deposit on the surface of masonry associated with water moving through the wall. This is usually just a cosmetic problem and can be cleaned off by light scraping. However, efflorescence can serve as a clue to an underlying moisture or water penetration problem in the surrounding structure.

The efflorescence deposits in this picture are on a chimney side just under the penetration through the roof. It is very likely that the flashing and water sealing of the chimney/roof joint are failing. This homeowner needs to take a closer look at the roof structure and shingles to see if there is further hidden damage that needs repair.
Efflorescence deposits on a brick chimney
Chalky white deposits on a brick surface indicate water movement. That water has to come from somewhere. It might be coming from the gap between the roof and the chimney due to failed flashing.
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    Brian Jovag, owner of Jovag Home Inspection.

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